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Charkha comes full circle

Fashion The summer-friendly fabric spells chic, says Anjana Rajan

Glamour and glitter: Khadi acquires opulent hues

TIME WAS when the charkha and khadi denoted sacrifice. Even when celebrating occasions such as marriages, the leaders of the freedom struggle gave up brocades and silks in favour of the hand woven material that stood for defiance against British rule. The story of Vijayalakshmi Pandit's khadi sari, woven by Kasturba Gandhi for her wedding to Ranjit Singh Pandit, is well known.

Cut to the present, and we find khadi has shed its austere image and acquired hues of opulence. For decades derided by fashion designers as a fabric without fall or suppleness, sheen or sophistication, it seems to have suddenly developed redeeming features that make it attractive to the czars and the czarinas of couture. The result is this `poor man's' cloth for all occasions has evolved into a highly priced product.

Designer names

Readymade clothes were introduced long ago at Khadi Gramodyog, but they did not have a good finish.

That complaint, however, is a thing of the past, with designer names displaying the latest trends in tops, kurtis, skirts and salwar-kameez in khadi.

All this doesn't mean indigenous fabrics are now beyond the budget of the commoner. Says postgraduate student Atika, dressed in hand-spun and hand-printed cotton, "It's summer friendly and it's cheap. Denims may be the mark of the world's young, but khadi outfits are glamorised now."

Many actors and singers travel all the way to the metros to buy colourful kurtas from FabIndia outlets. They feel that the colourful prints and bold designs look better on television and the big screen.

More than clothes

But clothes are not all. Since all manner of indigenous crafts, textiles and traditional medicines have come under the umbrella of the Khadi and Village Industries Commission over the decades, artisans and other skilled workers across rural and urban India have been benefiting from its market reach. But now they seem to be getting a run for their meagre money from the very institution that nurtures them.

Because Khadi is now a brand. The products made and packaged under this brand name are monitored by a body that comes under the Central Government.

The difference in packaging and price shows. But since, in matters of cosmetics and shampoos, honey and pickles, it is really a question of personal taste and affordability, the consumer is likely to remain king, as long as brand khadi does not ease out the other companies.

So if it makes no difference to you whether the substance you wash your face with is called a soap or a beauty bar, if you prefer the rustic `eencha' to a beauty bath, then you are free to go for the traditional varieties of herbal powders. Gone are the days when Khadi Gramodyog outlets had to hang up paper signs plaintively declaring, "Khadi is cool in summer."

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