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Sizzling and scrumptious

Meenam, the restaurant at Harrisons, has a limited yet tasty menu

— Pic. by R. Ragu

Time tested recipes at Meenam

AFTER A few years in obscurity, Harrisons, Nungambakkam, has done the Phoenix act. The name comes with a history of more than a hundred years and royal patronage! But unfortunately, there is no memorabilia or even a notice at the lobby or at any of the restaurants to indicate the hotel's long past. Nevertheless, the new `boutique hotel' avatar seems to be working well, going by the crowd at Meenam, the Indian restaurant there.

Fiery food

The first nibble at the starter, brain pepper fry (Rs. 70), was enough to convince me that Meenam (ph: 52222777) is back to its former glory. However, the peppery masala singed the tongue.

Next was gobi pakoda (Rs. 70). The beguiling crunchy florets

looked and tasted harmless at first, but five minutes later, I felt that it was like eating fire. My eyes began to water.

An uncle of mine to whom good food symbolised good life, used to swear by Harrisons' crab in the 1980s. Naturally, I had to check out whether it was still as good. Meenam didn't disappoint. Later the F&B Manager, Cecil S. Kotey let me in on a secret. Tradition and history are valued in the kitchen and so recipes and cooks continue at Harrisons.

Equally impressive were the chicken Hyderabadi (Rs.90), alu palak (Rs.70) and egg keema dosai (Rs.70).

Meenam's strength is not in variety or innovation. The menu is limited but the existing recipes have been perfected over the years. The meal ended on a happy note with the desserts, fruit brulee (Rs. 80) and carrot halwa (Rs.60) from Eden, also a restaurant at the Harrisons.

MARIEN MATHEW

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