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It's a `meaty' affair

New veg and non-veg flavours add some excitement to the menu at Chin Chin, The Residency



Enjoyable to the last crumb... Sous Chef Kanchan Sharma at Chin Chin. — Pic. by S. R. Raghunathan

TO SERVE fish or not to serve fish... that's the dilemma of restaurants, post-tsunami. Life goes on, yet the fear of the sea lingers.

The stories going around about what's found inside big fish make the originators of "Urban Legend" look like wannabes in terms of horrific detailing. And all these after repeated assurance from research institutes on the safety of seafood.

Personally, after lovely chicken, dragon chicken, Hunan chicken, drums of heaven and pan-fried chicken momos, I was ready to get on the table and crow. Once past that reaction, there was an outflow of deep sympathy for the chefs as there's a constraint on the working material.

Be it as it may, the evening at Chin Chin (ph: 28253434), The Residency, on G. N. Chetty Road, was a delicious one. The corporate chef Manohar's menu may have been a `meaty' one, but it was thoroughly enjoyable. Fried sweet corn and Buddha's delight (Rs.100 each) broke the monotony of the long chicken run. They turned out to be tasty. We are not dealing with any complex layering of flavours or a dramatic presentation here, just batter fried sweet corn enlivened with slivers of red chilli and sautéed mushroom, bean sprout and Chinese cabbage.

Hint of tomato

The tandon veg noodles (Rs. 85) deserve special mention. There was no smothering of oyster or soy sauce, just a mere hint of tomato. Even the almost raw onion and capsicum half rings didn't intrude on the overall effect.

Yet another meat dish, lamb konjeenaro (Rs. 100) was different from the usual crispy lamb. The sweetness in the marinade made the difference.

It is not fair to label all the chicken dishes as `dull'. Some did melt in the mouth. The Hunan (Rs. 135) and Dragon (Rs. 135) chicken dishes belong to this group. So was the pan-fried momos (Rs.120). Ironically, it was the Lovely chicken (Rs. 125) and Drums of Heaven (Rs.125) that disappointed.

Stuffed lychees in choco sauce (Rs. 120) were a worthy end to the meal.

Sous Chef Kanchan Sharma has taken over the kitchen now, yet the contentment with which you leave Chin Chin has not changed. That's continuity for you.

MARIEN MATHEW

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