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Where LESS is MORE
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Cholis are creating waves with newer cuts, the bare-and-dare look and exquisite craftwork on them, says JESSINA ABOOBACKER.
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IT IS remarkable what designers and tailors can do with this one metre of cloth to make an accompaniment to the sari. The sari blouse, today has crossed every conservative precincts and LOCs, to costume the penchant of the ever, fashion thirsty ladies. "Every stitch and inch in the blouse has undergone a revolution and women are more than pleased to plunge into this ocean of changes. The typical necked, sleeved, bra cut blouses seems to be a design of yore. Everybody wants a slit here or a deep cut there, a sling here and a strap there," comments Anu Chacko of `Veepees', Mullassery Canal Road.
Sleeveless in vogue
From full-sleeved to sleeveless blouses it has been a long expedition. It's the cap sleeves has gained immense popularity, as this is perfect for our climate. But that is not all. When the mercury starts rising a call was felt for more airy clothing and thus came the acceptance for sleeve less blouses. "Recently what my daughter-in-law wore for her engagement was what was called an A-line cut blouse with zips on the side. She also had her sari fashioned like one of those models in FTV. She looked so debonair and suave, to suit her petite contours," says Susan Koshy.
Up your sleeve
Then came in other fancy sleeves like the flair, bell, butterfly, three-forth sleeves and noodle straps etc. The old folded cap sleeves with flap worn by the actresses of the 70s are much in rage nowadays. Slits, bows and strings are hot favourites. Slit from the shoulder, slit from the elbow, slit from the wrist, slit on the flairs etc, there is a slit somewhere. "The clients are experimenting a lot with sleeves, as the sleeves are actually most visible part of the blouse, the rest is concealed beneath the sari. Most of the sari comes with blouses that have work on it, so some of the clients get separate cloth to be adventurous. And the fashion catalogues are always there to assist." Opines Ms. Chacko. "The back of the blouse is well designed at the vocational table. Strings attached, scallops done, cut works, bells attached, bows, gunghroos of silver and gold hanging etc. It has generous scope for a creative imagination."
Bollywood ishtyle
Blouses for daily wear and office wear are unscathed, as the work culture prefers unassuming dressing. But when it is a party or a marriage in question then the imagination lends a hand. It is mainly the influence of the Bollywood that lure the ladies to be audacious. " There is a lot of influence of the silver screen . The college girls demand patterns from the various Balaji Telefilms soaps." Says Nazer B.M, proprietor `La Paris', tailors famous for stitching sari blouses.
The airhostess blouses are always a favourite. "A lot depends on the style you are planning to wear the sari in. If you are wearing the Pallav in the front, then it is the `princess cut' that is perfect for your blouse. It will also have slits on the sides to give a more chic look. You can have this blouse either long or if you are bold enough then it can be off the customary length with your belly button bared." Says Ms. Chacko. "If you are wearing a back open blouse then you will be wearing an A-line cut blouse without a bra cutting. Back open blouses are well accepted especially with chiffon saris, though one might need assistance to put it on. I have also stitched a couple of halter neck blouses." She elaborates.
With strings attached
"The choli that is worn with the gagras is slowly lending their pattern to the sari blouse. The string blouses with single string, double string, full string at the back are a hit in the city. But these are mainly the college girls, who are waiting to try the first thing that they sight Aishwarya Rai or Kareena Kapoor wear." Says Ms Kurien of `Perfect Cut'. "The laces and borders that accompany the saris are fashionably placed on the blouse that it could be easily passed off as a ready-made salwar kameez. We get to be very imaginative with the laces. Some kind of work on the blouse is mandatory like sequence, zardosi, ari work, thread work, cut work etc." Says Mr. Nazer B.M. Every season one accessory takes predominance in the fashion pages and rules the roost. Experiments with blouses are the dictum of this fashion semester. "Only 20 per cent of the customers really take to all these bold fashions. Usually the parents' don't permit them before marriage and once married their spouses don't let them. Typically brides like to be exploratory on an engagement or a wedding function as the focus of attention is on her and her attire," say Anu Chacko.
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