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Bandhini beauty
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A striking array of bandhinis and Rajkot patolas from the Vanzas of Jamnagar at `also' boutique till September 18 is worth a look.
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MAGNIFICENT CREATIONS: Piyush Vanza carries on the ancient tradition.
BANDHINI BRINGS to mind a riot of colours, a maze of intricate designs in swaying soft fabrics. This traditional craft from the States of Gujarat and Rajasthan is popular today. A big name to reckon with in Bandhini is Vanza of Gujarat today. This 100-year-old shop chain (started at Jamnagar) has developed contemporary designs within the traditional framework. An age-old tradition is given a new lease of life by them. An exhibition of bandhinis of Vanza is being held for the first time in Hyderabad at `also' boutique (White house building, next to Lifestyle, Begumpet) till September 18.
Piyush Vanza, one of the members of the large Vanza family (belongs to the fifth generation), is here with his grand collection of Bandhini saris in silks, crepes, chiffons, satins and georgettes and dupattas. A few gorgeous gharcholas also don the hangers at `also'.
The business, started almost 100 years ago, is now a hereditary one. Besides the Vanza family, the present karigars too are in the fifth generation. The Vanzas started with an outlet in Jamnagar but now have about 15 outlets in Gujarat (Jamnagar, Vadodara, Ahmedabad and Rajkot) and Mumbai.
The saris are in different hues - some common ones, some different combinations and in intricate patterns too with some common and uncommon motifs. The colours one sees are aquamarine, shades of greys, pinks, greens, lilacs, magenta, violets besides reds, maroons, blacks, browns, yellows and mustards. The basic white sari in silk, crepe, satin, chiffon and georgette (manufactured according to the Vanza's specifications in Benaras, Kanchipuram and Bangalore) is then dyed and patterns worked out.
While the traditional bandhinis use the tie-and-dye designs, the Vanzas have introduced some changes keeping the changing times in mind. "On the basis of designers' (Vanzas have in-house designers) suggestions I work out the colour and the motifs," says Piyush. For instance, some of the saris (made in Benaras according to Vanzas' requirements) have some gold, silver and embossed motifs besides zari borders and rich pallus. "The tie-and-dye work is then done," says Piyush Vanza. And the end result is a gorgeous Benarasi bandhini. The colour combinations too are new. Instead of the usual maroons, reds, greens or blues some lighter combinations are also worked out - like a light blue with grey or a lilac with green. Sometimes the saris are in monotones too with half-half designs. That is, the pallu may be adorned with motifs of gold or silver, while the body may have just bandhini work. A pista green crepe with silver leaf motifs in this category is stunning yet elegant. A georgette pista green with self-embossed motifs with bandhini is chic too.
There are other saris with bandhini in the middle of zari squares. And of course there is the classic gharchola - a must for every Gujarati bride. These are expensive saris - the work is exquisite too and the colour combinations are traditional yet attractive. These cost in the range of Rs. 14,000 upwards. "All the bandhini work is done at Jamnagar even today and the large number of Vanza family members is involved in the business," says Piyush Vanza.
EXQUISITE DRAPE: For special occasions.
The whole range of bandhinis on display is between the range of Rs. 4000 and Rs. 25,000. Do not be frightened of the price tag because there may be some within your budget.
For those who do not wear saris there are some dress materials (which one can buy by the metre) and dupattas. The dupattas are quite similar to the saris in terms of colours and patterns.
Rajkot Patolas too will be on display. These are in pure silk and cost Rs. 5,500 onwards.
Be sure to catch a glimpse of Vanza's creations either today or tomorrow.
RADHIKA RAJAMANI
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