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Indo-Western look is in

The Lakme India Fashion Week, recently concluded, showcased a range of clothes which the trendy found interesting.

HAUTE COUTURE is in, specially after the culmination of the Lakme India Fashion Week (LIFW) it seems. This is the season of festivals and weddings and of clothes too. More so designer wear amongst the elite and noveau riche. It is with a sense of pride that many flaunt designer wear. Couture of about 17 designers was on show at the capital. Here's what they look like, for those of us in Kochi who couldn't have a dekko.

The silhouettes are formal and casual, primarily Indo-Westerns in a colourful palette. The cuts are simple, the embellishments vary from the subtle to the heavy. The couture comprises primarily short kurtas teamed with trousers. The price range of these ethnic yet chic outfits begins from Rs. 2000 onwards.

Anamika Khanna's frayed dupattas form the new look of her collection teamed with layered kurtas - with a shaded bottom layer overlaid with a subtly-embellished upper layer. Kiran Uttam Ghosh, in her Kimono line, has detailing on the trousers too. Her kurtas are embellished with gold thread sequins and even antique work.

Manish Arora's pure silk kurtas stand out for their neat cuts and pintucks. The linen range is characterised with the tie-and-dye crushed dupattas with roll-down sleeves in two colours.

The pręt line of Lina Tipnis (Linarika) uses a mixed fabric with frills (which is unique) and sequins. Nahid Merchant's creations have a regal look with the profuse use of stones in a maze of gold thread work and even silver zardozi. The antique embroidery imparts a grand look.

Sabyasachi, the young designer who made headlines in the LIFW for his couture, has interesting ensembles. While the sleeves of the kurtas have Benarasi borders, the double-layered dupattas (in different shades and fabrics - chiffon and tissue) have a Bohemian look.

Raghavendra Rathore, one of the `hot' designers today has sent some plain shirts with roll over sleeves (in two colours) in cotton and silk. These can be worn over jeans or teamed with trousers or salwars.

The distinguishing feature of Swapan and Seema's outfits is the shading - perfect blending of colours. Anita Dongre's pręt line in georgettes is a simple neat line with minimal embellishments. The silk-blend clothes are adorned with gold thread. The linen line is fairly similar to the georgettes.

Rehane's forte is ribbon work and she uses it to the best extent possible in the outfits which stand apart on account of this. The Kotwara collection of Meera and Muzaffar Ali has fine embroidery and recalls the royal legacy of the Nawabs of Lucknow through the angarkhas.

Prints in crepes is the hallmark of Nikki Mahajan who embellishes them further with sequins. A few printed shirts are available which can be coordinated with trousers by the customer. Cotton is the ideal fabric of the country and Anju Modi's khadi cotton outfits with crushed chiffon dupattas with mokaish warrant a look on account of the usage of the fabric and the cuts. Denim is another preferred fabric of many and Vijay Arora has come out with jacquard denim with crushed dupatta. Poonam Bhagat, in the Taika line, has used pintucks, kantha with zardozi and patch work in different ways.

RADHIKA RAJAMANI

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