They suit your style

Despite the influx of readymades there are several tailoring houses in Chennai that continue to contribute to the sartorial elegance of its citizenry. PERVIZ BHOTE talks to some of them.

WHEN MOHAMMED Ahmed, proprietor of the famous 'Emm Aay Tailors,' one of the oldest tailoring houses for men's clothing in Chennai, was asked whether he felt the pinch of competition with the influx of readymade garments, his eyes twinkled as he replied - "Readymades are brought to Custom Tailors to be altered. No two people can have the same physique and figure. A person has to adjust himself to a readymade garment, whereas, custom-made clothes are tailored to suit the figure."

The demand for clothes is high as is evident from the mind- boggling variety that is available in terms of quality, design and price. The readymade market is flourishing with branded wear, as well as affordable look-alikes, but for those who are fastidious about the fit, there is nothing like custom-made attire. While a tailored suit is anything from Rs. 8,5000 upwards depending on the material the tailoring charges range from Rs.3,500 to Rs.4,000, for jackets the charge is Rs.3,000 and shervanis from Rs.2,500 to Rs.3,500. It may seem a high price to pay but then one gets a precise cut, elegant look and superior quality material when clothes are custom-made.

Chennai can boast of some famous tailoring houses that have contributed to the sartorial elegance of eminent personalities for nearly half-a-century or more. Shops such as Syed Bawkher & Co., Emm Aay Tailors, Zenart and Jasmine are like city landmarks. Interestingly, the profession has remained in these families for nearly three generations. The succeeding generation too has taken to it not out of compulsion but because of pride in the profession.

As far back as in 1951, family and friends were surprised when Mohammed Ahmed, on graduating from the Presidency College, decided to follow in the footsteps of his father T.Bashu Mia, who was the main cutter for Wren Bennet & Co., which was the fashion destination for all the elegantly dressed men during the British Raj. So keen was he on improving his skills and becoming familiar with the latest cuts, that he wangled an apprenticeship with the famous tailoring house B. Kupen Hemmer & Co. of Chicago. He has travelled a long way since then, starting out in Rattan Bazaar and now running the show with his sons from the fashionable Arihant VTN Square on G. N. Chetty Road (Tel. 8214695), building up an elegant clientele, which includes the top brass of industrial houses in South India, diplomats, cricketers and several other important personalities.

'Clothes maketh a man' is the maxim borrowed from the English bard by Syed Bawkher & Co., an establishment with a 100-year old reputation. Their first showroom was started in Bangalore and in 1955, Syed Bawkher moved to Madras where he set up his business on Mount Road. His grandson Sajjad Ahmed turned out to be an ardent pupil, and under him the business was carried on with a renewed vigour. "We make sure you are well-suited for any occasion," says Sajjad Ahmed with a confidence that exudes from years of dressing people in impeccable style and perfect cuts. "Sartorial elegance is no longer a preoccupation of the rich. It is what the successful man is wearing today. A well fitting suit enhances your personlity and confidence in a way that mere good looks may not," he adds. It's obvious then that their clients include successful people from all walks of life.

Interestingly, even NRIs continue their patronage, for the Bawkhers have perfected tailoring to make it a fine art. 'Top flight tailor' as he is called by a British diplomat in the city of Chennai, Sajjad Ahmed was honoured with an 'Award for Excellence in Tailoring' in 1994. Along with son Junaid, Sajjad manages the establishment at Arti Arcade on Dr. Radhakrishnan salai (Tel.8113715/8114090), while his son Salim Mohammed takes care of the Anna Nagar branch (Tel. 6221557). His brother Aijaz Ahmed has his own establishment at No.34, Cathedral Road (Tel.8110067).

M. C. Ramachandran was once popular in Abhiramapuram and Mylapore. His son R. Shankar now dons his father's mantle and is fast expanding the business. He specialises in tailoring garments for women and uniforms of all kinds. An added attraction is the reasonable tailoring charge - Rs.150 for a pair of trousers and Rs. 80 for a shirt. "Custom-made clothes are definitely far superior to readymades as the fit is better. One can exercise choice over quality and pattern of the material. Besides, in the long run, custom-mades prove to be far less expensive as they last longer," says Shanker, proprietor of Jasmine tailors(6/5, 3rd Cross Road, R.A. Puram, Tel. 4935242).

Every area in Chennai has its own tailoring specialist, patronised by the local clientele. There are even the pedlar- tailors who can be seen everywhere with sewing machines mounted on castors or roller-boards doing brisk business. Then there are those who only undertake alterations. Although readymade garments flood the market every tailoring establishment - small, medium, big, well-known or of dubious reputation, has more on its plate than it can manage. The demand is perennial and peaks just before the reopening of schools and during the wedding and festival season.

Rao tailor of Nungambakkam remarks, "Clothes form the second important necessity in life - roti, kapada aur makaan. So, as long as the population of India is large, no tailor can remain unemployed. If he is not flourishing, it's not the market that is to blame, but his own lack of skill or laziness." Sounds like a good alternative to all those hundreds who seek admission to the professional courses such as engineering and medicine in the hope of a secure livelihood. Here is a good profession that thrives on creativity, a sense of design, precision and common sense too. What's more, it affords ample job satisfaction. I once happened to argue with my tailor for charging me a high price. His reply foxed me.

"Madam, for just a few extra rupees, haven't I made you look years younger?" Tailoring could well pave the way to fame, money and success and what's more, give you leveraging power over a client's destiny, for is it not true that 'the apparel oft proclaims the man?'

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