Punjab on a platter

THERE ARE teething problems and there are teething problems. The Punjabi Mahal, new restaurant at the Mowbray's Inn, seems to be beset with nothing but that. May be it was one of those evenings when nothing goes well. One is forced to find and make excuses in this case.

At 9 p.m. on Monday, we were the only customers at the Punjabi Mahal. One would think that this meant a lot of attention from the staff. But it took eight to ten requests at least, to three or four persons to get a mosquito coil. An open-air restaurant with plants in the city means 'feed feed' for the mosquitoes. During the one-hour wait for the starters, there were times when the A/C restaurant next door looked highly tempting. But in the end, a sense of duty prevailed.

About 20 minutes after we ordered the Palak and Paneer Sheek one of the vegetarian kebabs listed under the Tandoor section, we were told that the two would not come together, but only as paneer or spinach sheek. Finally, by the time it did appear, the kebab turned out to be a spinach and potato one. However, for Rs. 55, it was not bad at all. So were the Lassooni Sheekh kebabs (Rs. 90).

The main course didn't take as long as the starters. Within 20 minutes, Murg Hariyali Khorma (Rs. 75), Vegetable Makhanwala (Rs. 60), Yellow Dal Tadka (Rs. 50) and parathas and kulchas were ready. Among the breads, Kabuli ki naan (Rs. 15) with dates and nuts stood out.

The Punjabi Mahal seems to have an identity crisis. Along with the usual North Indian fare, one can spot Kozhi Varutha Curry, Crab Chettinad and other South Indian dishes. The Tamil film songs didn't do much either to create a Punjabi Mahal ambience.

For dessert, we were told that gajar halwa (Rs. 20) and kaala jamoon (Rs. 20) were available. The second one turned out to be gulab jamoon. By the time we reached the dessert stage, it was almost 11 p.m. and I just didn't have the energy nor the inclination to point out that the two were not the same.

At this point, the only direction Punjabi Mahal can go is up. But for that, it has to get its act right and that too, fast.

MARIEN MATHEW

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