Lured by a fascinating city

He is passionate about Delhi and so does not think twice about coming down like a tonne of bricks on Delhiites and custodians of the city's architecture for letting its wealth in historic structures whither away.

Here for a day this past week-end en route home after his annual visit to India, William Dalrymple -- the man who bagged the 1994 Thomas Cook Travel Book Award for his book on Delhi, ``City of Djinns'' -- was scathing in his criticism of Delhiites for their indifference towards the Capital.

``This is one of the most amazing, remarkable and fascinating cities I've ever been to,'' says the blue-eyed author who first wrote his way to the bestseller list at the age of 22. ``Still Delhiites are not passionate about their city the way residents of Mumbai and Kolkata are.'' It was this coupled with the absence of accessible books on Delhi that inspired Dalrymple to write ``City of Djinns''.

``I came to Delhi by accident. I'd actually come to India to take up a teaching assignment in Dehra Dun. Later I moved to the Capital and worked in Mother Teresa's home at Majnu Ka Tila. I had time on my hands and used it to explore the city. Over a period, I realised there weren't many accessible books on Delhi and decided to write one.''

Though several years have passed since ``City of Djinns'', there has been no waning of Dalrymple's love for Delhi. If anything, subsequent travels across the country have only strengthened his first impression of the Capital. Ask him to compare the political Capital with India's financial hub and pat comes the uncharitable reply: ``Mumbai is an ugly, brash, modern city of stars and crooked businessmen.''

Needless to say, even Dalrymple concedes that Delhi is very different today from what it was when he first arrived here. And, he is not talking only of the concrete jungle Delhi has turned into, but the way old structures are crumbling. ``The ASI is a lazy government department which continues to use dated conservation techniques. And INTACH, though well-meaning, is toothless.''

Given his views on ASI's functioning, Dalrymple is rather upset with its recent decision to charge foreigners extra to visit monuments. ``It would have been all right if the money was used for proper restoration of monuments and their upkeep. But ASI is such a bureaucratic organisation that one has to wonder whether the money will be used properly.''

Drawn by the mystery of India, Dalrymple is presently working on two books set in the subcontinent. The first is based in Hyderabad and is a semi-fictional work set in colonial times. The second is on the legend of St. Thomas. But, as always, his books will address the foreign audience, `desi' setting notwithstanding.

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