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Music blends with warp and weft
HAS THERE been any effort to make music, say, the ragas seen?
Apparently not. But in a metaphysical sense, yes. Ancient Indian
rishis have seen music; not only music, but many other things
that ordinary men cannot. That is why they are called seers. At a
mundane level too, such a vision is possible for gifted artistes
and artisans.
In the past, some painters tried to give a form to select ragas.
One such was presenting the Hindola raga with a painting of Lord
Krishna playing amidst gopikas. This commendable feat of
rendering ragas for ocular perception of the ordinary man has
been performed by a small band of Tamil Nadu's weavers, the
reputed RmKV silk shop in Tirunelveli!
The duo, Viswanathan and Sivakumar, curiously, does not belong to
any music family; they are third generation textile traders.
Anxious to be different, they devote themselves to a medium
transfer of art, taking paintings and sculptures, even poems to
the looms, to present every precious Indian product of the past
as silken epics.
The brothers made their debut in theme sarees with poet
Subramania Bharathi's song ``Chinnanchiru Kiliyae'' in dance
poses on the pallu and the border; it was their debut and they
have come a long way now, with several unique theme sarees.
For the past two years, they have won national awards for weaving
sarees of excellence in the silk sector with their ``Aiswarya
Pookkal'' and ``Hamsa Damayanthi'', the former a silken
reproduction of motifs in the Padmanabhapuram palace in
Thakkalay; the latter a reproduction of Ravi Varma's painting of
the epic heroine Damayanthi, sending Nala, the hero of hamsa
(swan) as her emissary. This year's theme sari of RmKV pertaining
to the music field is Ragadeepam.
According to musicologists, classical Indian tradition counts
basic ragas as six, Bhairava, Dipika, Sri, Malkauns, Megha, and
Hindola are meant to be sung during the six seasons of the year -
summer, monsoon, autumn, pre-winter, winter and spring. The
ragas, pentatonic in scale are considered male and those of a
heptatonic scale are taken as female.
Each of the six principal ragas has five raginis, wives and eight
sons, ragaputras. Bhairava is a musical manifestation of Lord
Siva.
Tradition assigns Ragadipika, to the reign of emperor Akbar where
the court musician was asked to sing a tune to cause fire.
This fired the imagination of several painters later. In the
subdued form of the flame of a lamp, this facet is associated
with Deepavali. That is what the RmKV brothers have done on the
pallu of the ``Raga Deepam'' sari. The saree portrays on the
border 16 manifestations of the raga family such as Bhairavi
Ragini, a lady worshipping Siva, a lady and the lotus for Malasri
Ragini, Krishna at the spring festival, Vasantha Ragini, and a
lady playing on the veena to lure a deer in the forest, Todi
Ragini.
The ``Raga Deepam'' sari, which comes out in seven colours,
carries a price tag of Rs. 11,450, according to M. Sabesan,
Project Consultant. On seeing the sari which breathes music in
every inch, one is all appreciation for the promoters, and the
artisans at the looms who could translate their vision so
exquisitely into silk and zari, making the audible music visible.
From conception to execution, it has taken a few months to get
the first sari out of the looms. But the splendid product is a
confluence of art and form and justifies the time and energy
spent in the transcreation. Once the looms are set, it just takes
a week to weave a theme sari.
The other theme sari of Deepavali portrays the Buddhist religious
symbol Amirtha kalasam, a reproduction of the famous Sanchi Stupa
and its motif on its pallu - that is verily the weavers' tribute
to the sculptors of the past.
That apart, the sari also projects religious harmony and national
integration.
The northern chisel led work on stone is translated into silk and
zari in the southern warp and weft.
Yet another wholesome transfer of substance and form is the
depiction of the Krishnapuram sculptures on a silk sari.
Krishnapuram is a small village, near Tirunelveli.
The Vishnu temple there has exquisite sculptures, excelling those
of Ellora. The temple was renovated recently.
It took six months for the RmKV brothers and their team of
weavers to bring alive the Krishnapuram sculptures on Kanchipuram
silk.
One is awe-struck by the sculptures in their silken version.
Sculptures so depicted are those of Rati, Manmadhan, a lady
looking at her image in a mirror, a monkey breeder, a cavalry
cadet; all presented with grace and gloss in silk and zari.
Much planning goes in depicting properly the chosen theme; and
then they go through the meticulous process and technicalities of
preparing the design punch cards with the help of computers.
Next, they tutor the weavers to adhere to the nuances of the new
pattern and then come the chores of supervising the process for
exactness when the prototype is being woven.
To the brothers these appear to be exercises all through the
year; because by the time they bring out one theme sari, they are
on the hunt for more.
R. NATARAJAN
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