A second coming

THE CURRY COAST: Binoo K. John; Konark Publishers Pvt. Ltd., A- 149, Main Vikas Marg, Delhi-110092.

Rs. 300.

AS THE 500th anniversary of Vasco da Gama's landing on the Kerala coast approached, some Europeans planned to re-enact his voyage. The Gama visit that heralded the era of colonialism is, of course, part of history. Its re-enactment, however, was motivated by commercial considerations, not academic interest. The men who planned the repeat performance apparently did not realise that the view from India's coast is quite different from that from Europe's. The small crowd that gathered in Kozhikode on the anniversary came not to greet the Portuguese adventure on his second coming but to burn his effigy in a belated act of revenge. The Curry Coast is a delicious fare prepared by Delhi-based journalist, Binoo K. John, who journeyed twice to his native Kerala as history was repeating itself as farce. It provides readers an opportunity to share the delights of the journey.

There is plenty of evidence in the book to show that the author prepared himself well to perform his task as a commissioned traveller. He familiarised himself with the writings of others who had travelled in those parts in the past. He doles out to his readers in convenient morsels the intelligence gathered from such sources. Thus we learn how Ibn Batuta looked with starry-eyed fascination when pepper was being weighed. We get to know what Marco Polo saw in the kingdom of Eli. We even get a detailed account of Vasco da Gama's meeting with the Zamorin, extracted from William Logan's chronicles.

While repeatedly reminding us of his bonds with Kerala, the author brings to bear a good deal of detachment when he describes life in the state. He holds the scales even as he talks of the political establishment and its unwitting victims. He takes note of the government's bold but doomed attempt to revive the industries, which, he tells us, they themselves had stifled to death by the most rabid and senseless trade unionism. He also mentions how as industries and agriculture withered away the young revolutionaries who had grown up singing stirring songs winged away to the Gulf region to do manual labour in the desert sands.

The book lists so many negative factors that the over-proud Keralite may well squirm as he reads it. But, then, such matters as the high suicide rate and the attraction of TA/DA are not figments of the author's imagination. At the same time, he cannot be accused of overlooking the positive factors. He recognises, for instance, the inventiveness of the Kerala entrepreneur who offers chilled ``jeera'' water as an alternative to cola. Amidst the pervading social conservatism, his observant eye spots a rare and glorious exception like P. T. Usha, who, in his words, ``stood in sharp contrast to the image of the Malabari women who are silent, frighteningly modest, bereft of ambitions, cowed down by customs, rituals and gold.''

Not only familiar places like the famed Jew Town of Kochi, but also lesser local institutions like the ubiquitous bakeries and the evening newspapers of Kannur come up for honourable mention. Above all, there is the pleasing sight of row upon endless row of children going to or coming from schools dressed in neat uniforms. Which other state can match that?

The author writes engagingly. He is at his best when he showers sarcasm, which comes easily when he writes about the forces of politics and religion. ``Street-side evangelism and taluk-level Marxism,'' he says, ``always provided ready alternative and showed the path to a decent life on earth.'' At Thiruvalla in central Travancore, all sarcasm dries up, and reverence drips as he meets the Malayalam poet, Vishnunarayanan Namboodiri, ``a rare human being'', who had taught him English at college and was doing a stint as priest at the town's ancient temple.

The author's pleasant encounters with the rich variety of food on offer at eating places in Kerala invest the title of the book with extra relevance. A chapter on Goa comes as a bonus. Irritating editing lapses obstruct the reader's progress through the book.

B.R.P. BHASKAR

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